Hot off the griddle

Axe

The hearty pancake served with organic sweet butter and maple syrup during weekend brunch service isn’t easily duplicated at home. No wonder it has a cult following. Made with nine grains, including millet, brown rice and oats, as well as poppy seeds, it is, in the words of chef-owner Joanna Moore, “all about texture.”

* Nine-grain pancake, $10. 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, (310) 664-9787.

Square One Dining

The pancakes at this not quite year-old spot are classic, oversized, fluffy buttermilk cakes. But they are really a vehicle for the accouterments, because they were designed by chef Robert Lee to show off the toppings created by pastry chef Hayden Ramsey, such as warm dulce de leche sauce flavored with bacon, or perhaps chocolate sauce spiced with star anise, cloves and black pepper.

* Pancakes with dulce de leche, $8.25. 4854 Fountain Ave., L.A., (323) 661-1109.

The Griddle Cafe

Sure, you can get satisfying, unadulterated hotcakes all day at this hip hang. But the myriad variations are tempting. Most popular honors go to “banana nana,” which is loaded with brown-sugar-baked bananas. “Scotch on the rocks,” made with oats, pecans, coconut and butterscotch chips, is a newer entry.

* “Banana nana” cakes, $8.95. 7916 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 874-0377.

Haute Cakes Caffe

As the name suggests, pancakes are the specialty at this Orange County breakfast fave. Orange ricotta cakes are made with fresh-

squeezed orange juice and orange zest, and topped with fresh berries macerated in sugar. Cornmeal blueberry pancakes are heartier than the usual blueberry cakes, with the sweetness of corn.

* Orange ricotta cakes, $10.25. 1807 Westcliff Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 642-4114.

Coral Tree Cafe

Any of the pancakes here can be had in mini size for the kids at this casual, locals-only hangout. But the popular choice for the under-

10 set is the chocolate chip pancakes, which are really chocolate-chocolate chip cakes, because the batter is made with cocoa. Make that chocolate-

chocolate-chocolate chip with the drizzle of chocolate sauce on top.

* Mini chocolate chip pancakes, $6.35. 11645 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 979-8733.

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-- Leslee Komaiko