Pleasure, multiplied

It’s an odd kind of algebra: Anything that serves double duty always seems three times as entertaining. (Like those Marvel two-in-one comics that featured, say, the Thing and Spider-Man.)

During the holidays, when the days and weeks are compressed, baked chocolate wonders that make for great gifts as well as delicious desserts are a triple-your-pleasure convenience. Dense chocolate bouchons, chocolate shortcakes studded with brandied cherries, crisp meringues dotted with cacao nibs and pink peppercorns -- think of them not only as presents for friends and drop-ins, but also as building blocks toward an end-of-the-meal spectacular. With chocolate shortcakes around, you’re two beats from a fantastic dessert -- add a dollop of whipped creme fraiche and some of the syrup from the brandied cherries.

There are few better building blocks than the kind made with chocolate. And butter. Thomas Keller’s recipe for bouchons, for example, are built with a cup of cocoa powder and 6 ounces of chopped chocolate -- and twice that amount of melted butter. The bouchons turn out of their tins like oversize thimbles, with a texture that falls somewhere between dense cake and denser brownie, the structure of the crumb interrupted by tiny pockets of melted chocolate.

The flavor is almost unadulterated chocolate, with slight variations based on the kind of cocoa and chocolate you use. If it’s Scharffen Berger, hints of bright lemon; if Valrhona, a backdrop of coffee and spice. Keller, whose Yountville bakery Bouchon makes the little cakes as a signature dessert, says he likes how the shape reminds him of the corks (“bouchons”) for which the bakery is named. The bouchons there are truly almost as small as corks -- two or three bites of rich chocolate are a perfect snack, with espresso -- or a glass of milk. But the bouchons from this recipe in his “Bouchon” cookbook are about twice the size, just right for a full-fledged dessert.

And the cakes do dress up nicely. At Bouchon in Yountville, they’re serving three small bouchons with roasted banana ice cream and a hazelnut tuile, along with chocolate sauce and a salted caramel sauce. For folks at home, a scoop of ice cream and a drop of sauce -- or a flurry of powdered sugar and a few raspberries -- can turn a single bouchon into a work of art.

‘Tasting’ desserts

Works of art and their components are precisely the premise for pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini’s new book, “Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets From a Four-Star Pastry Chef.” Iuzzini’s the pastry chef at Jean Georges restaurant in New York, and his desserts are, well, involved. “When I began . . . at Jean Georges, I was introduced to the notion of ‘tasting’ desserts -- four different desserts on one plate,” he writes.

An “exotic chocolate fourplay,” for example, includes chocolate-chipotle soup with milk chocolate and coconut foam; malted-chocolate rice pudding and crispy rice cracker; chocolate-filled passion souffle tarts; and milk chocolate mousse with caramelized bananas and hazelnut caramel sauce. Yes, that’s one dessert.

Don’t turn and run yet. Each component of each dessert can be delicious by itself -- like pink peppercorn meringues, which Iuzzini serves with white chocolate ice cream and rhubarb sorbet in an ode to the vacherin, the French concoction of meringue and ice cream. The meringues are crisp, light as air and just slightly tender at the center. (The trick is to beat the egg whites at a low speed.)

He’s got a chocolate version with cacao nibs mixed in. And, actually, the earthy cacao nibs and fragrant pink peppercorns are great together. The pink peppercorns have a peppery kick but also are fruity and slightly sweet. (But you can skip the pink peppercorns if you don’t have them on hand.)

“Meringues are a staple in the pastry kitchen,” Iuzzini writes, “because they can carry so many flavors.” To make coconut meringues, replace the cocoa and cacao nibs with 6 tablespoons of shredded unsweetened coconut.

Wrap a handful or two in cellophane, tie up with ribbon, and they’re a pink-peppercorn-and-cacao-nib dream of a gift. They keep for a couple of days. And you can use them for a virtuoso plated dessert. Add ice cream, berries and whipped cream. Or crumble them over ice cream or panna cotta. Sandwich ganache between a couple of meringues and serve them at a party.

Delicious chocolate shortcakes are versatile too. A recipe from test kitchen manager Noelle Carter, they are made with cocoa and chopped bittersweet chocolate and a little espresso, which seems to intensify the chocolate flavors.

The texture of the shortcakes is more rustic than the bouchons, slightly more crumbly. The brandied cherries are elegant, tinged with spice and heady from Armagnac. The batter is studded with dried sour cherries poached in Armagnac, orange liqueur, cinnamon, peppercorns and orange zest.

For gifts, stack a couple shortcakes, wrap in parchment and tie up with string. They’ll keep for a few days, tightly sealed, at room temperature.

But they might be too good to give away. You could instead keep them for your own dinner table. Split them crosswise, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and extra brandied cherries. Sometimes the best gifts are the ones you give to yourself.

--

betty.hallock@latimes.com

amy.scattergood@latimes.com

--

BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX

Chocolate bouchons

Total time: 45 minutes, plus cooling time

Servings: Makes 12 bouchons

Note: Adapted from “Bouchon” by Thomas Keller. Timbale molds are available at Sur La Table stores and at www.cooking.com and www.amazon.com. Keller suggests using 3-ounce (2 to 2 1/2 -inch diameter) stainless-steel timbale molds.

3/4 cup (3 1/2 ounces) flour

1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 large eggs

1 1/2 cups plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) butter, melted and just slightly warm

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, such as 55% Valrhona, chopped into pieces the size of chocolate chips

Butter and flour for the timbale molds

Powdered sugar

1. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder and salt.

2. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the eggs and sugar on medium speed until thick and pale in color, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and mix until incorporated.

3. With the mixer on low speed, add about one-third of the dry ingredients, then one-third of the butter, and continue alternating with the remaining flour and butter. Add the chocolate and continue to mix to combine. (The batter can be made up to this point and refrigerated, covered, for up to one day.)

4. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour 12 timbale molds. Set aside.

5. Put the timbale molds on a baking sheet. Place the batter in a pastry bag without a tip, or with a large plain tip, and fill each mold about two-thirds full. Bake the bouchons until the tops are shiny and set (like a brownie), and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out moist but clean (there may be some melted chocolate from the chopped chocolate), 20 to 25 minutes.

6. Transfer the bouchons to a cooling rack. After a couple of minutes, invert the molds and let the bouchons cool in the molds. Remove the molds and serve, or store until needed (the bouchons are best eaten the day they are baked).

7. To serve, invert the bouchons and dust them with powdered sugar. Serve with ice cream, if desired.

Each of 12 servings: 453 calories; 5 grams protein; 46 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 30 grams fat; 15 grams saturated fat; 113 mg. cholesterol; 116 mg. sodium.

----

Chocolate shortcakes with brandied cherries

Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Servings: 8

Note: From Noelle Carter. The shortcakes are best served warmed with whipped creme fraiche or vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of the reserved brandied cherries in their sauce.

Brandied cherries

1 pound dried tart cherries

2/3 cup sugar

1 1/2 cups brandy

1 cup dry red wine

1/4 cup amaretto

1/4 cup orange liqueur, preferably Cointreau

1/2 vanilla bean

1 (3-inch) stick cinnamon

1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns

Zest of 1 small orange

1. In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan, combine the cherries with the sugar, brandy, wine, amaretto and orange liqueur. Scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean into the pan, and combine with the other ingredients. Place the vanilla pod, cinnamon, peppercorns and orange zest in a small piece of cheesecloth and tie together to make a sachet (this will make it easier to discard once the cherries have been brandied). Place the sachet in the saucepan.

2. Bring the cherries to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Strain the cherries from the liquid and set aside. Discard the sachet. Bring the liquid back to a simmer and continue to cook until it has thickened to a syrup and reduced to three-fourths cup, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat.

4. Combine the syrup with the cherries in a non-reactive container. This makes about 3 cups of brandied cherries. Cover and refrigerate until needed; the brandied cherries will keep, refrigerated, for months.

Chocolate shortcakes

2 cups flour

2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting

2/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold butter, divided

1 cup chopped bittersweet chocolate, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces

1 cup drained brandied cherries

1 teaspoon instant espresso

1 tablespoon hot water

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream

1/4 cup sour cream

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon coarse or sanding sugar

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut 5 tablespoons of the cold butter into half-inch pieces; incorporate the butter into the flour mixture using a pastry cutter or fork until crumbly. Stir in the chopped chocolate and brandied cherries.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the espresso and hot water until the espresso is dissolved. Stir in the heavy cream, sour cream and vanilla.

3. Stir the espresso mixture into the dough mixture. The mixture will still be very crumbly at first. Knead the dough (still in the bowl) with your hands until it just comes together. Lightly flour your work surface with cocoa powder and flatten the dough to 1 1/2 -inch thickness. Using a 2 1/2 -inch round biscuit cutter, cut the dough into 8 rounds. Place the rounds at least 2 inches apart on two stacked baking sheets lined with a sheet of parchment paper (the double layer of baking sheets will prevent the shortcakes from overcooking on the bottom before they are fully baked).

4. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Lightly brush the top of each shortcake with melted butter. Lightly sprinkle the coarse sugar over the shortcakes and place in the oven. Bake the shortcakes until puffed and they spring back lightly when touched, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through for even baking.

5. Remove the shortcakes, still on the parchment, to a rack. Cool completely. The shortcakes will keep for 3 days, covered, at room temperature.

Each of 8 servings: 631 calories; 7 grams protein; 85 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 27 grams fat; 16 grams saturated fat; 59 mg. cholesterol; 422 mg. sodium.

----

Chocolate and pink peppercorn meringues

Total time: 50 minutes, plus 2 1/2 hours baking time

Servings: About 3 dozen meringues

Note: Adapted from “Dessert FourPlay” by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore.

1/2 cup egg whites (about 4 large), at room temperature

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

10 tablespoons sugar, divided

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1/4 cup powdered sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons crushed pink peppercorns

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons cacao nibs

1. Heat the oven to 150 degrees.

2. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment and, using a pen, trace 20 (2-inch) circles onto each sheet (your final count will depend on the volume of your meringue; you may not fill all of the circles). Turn the parchment over so the ink won’t bleed into the meringues.

3. Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (alternatively, this can be done in a large bowl with a hand mixer). With the mixer on low, beat the whites gently just until frothy, about 2 minutes.

4. With the mixer still on low, gently sprinkle in 4 tablespoons of the sugar. Continue to beat until the whites start to thicken to a meringue but are still shy of having soft peaks, about 10 minutes.

5. Sprinkle over 4 more tablespoons sugar and keep beating until the meringue forms medium-firm peaks (they should not be stiff), another 10 minutes.

6. Sprinkle over the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue to beat until the meringue is glossy and smooth and almost stiff, 6 to 8 minutes.

7. Sift one-third each of the cocoa powder and powdered sugar over the meringue and gently fold them in. Continue until all of the cocoa and sugar have been incorporated. Gently fold in the peppercorns and cacao nibs.

8. Transfer the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip (about one-half inch in diameter). Pipe the meringue onto each of the circles. To do this, hold the pastry tip about one-half inch over the center of each circle and pipe the meringue, pressing until it spreads to the edge of the circle. Lift the pastry tip slightly and cut the pressure, forming a “peak” over the center of each meringue. Continue until all of the meringues have been piped.

9. Place the meringues in the oven and bake until they have formed a hard shell, about 2 1/2 hours. Rotate pans every hour for even baking.

10. Cool the meringues completely, then store in an airtight container in a dry, cool place. The meringues will keep for up to 2 days.

Each of 36 servings: 23 calories; 1 gram protein; 5 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 0 fat; 0 cholesterol; 6 mg. sodium.