From a new downtown pizza restaurant to omelets for dinner in Echo Park, here’s what’s happening in the Los Angeles food and drink world:
We frequently claim that Los Angeles is home to some of the best pizzas (and food) in the country. See: Chef Nancy Silverton, Desano Pizza, Pizzana, Settebello and too many others to count. And it’s about to get even better. Silverton has teamed with her former Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza chef Matt Molina, and the team behind Everson Royce Bar (where Molina is now a chef) to open Triple Beam Pizza in Highland Park. They hope to open the pizzeria, located just down the street from Good Girl Dinette, with limited hours on Wednesday. Randy Clement of Silver Lake Wine and Everson Royce Bar, who owns the building, said the plan is to open a pizzeria, restaurant, coffee shop and wine shop. Thus, Highland Park Wine is scheduled to open along with the pizzeria on Wednesday, a to-be-named restaurant with Molina at the helm will open in a few months, and another branch of the coffee shop Go Get Em Tiger will open in the next couple months as well.
Molina says he and Silverton have been working on the pizza dough for Triple Beam, which is rolled out and cut with scissors into strips, since before they opened Pizzeria Mozza. The dough, crispier and thinner than that on a Neapolitan-style pizza, was inspired by a love of the dough at Antico Forno Roscioli in Rome. Signs at the new pizzeria suggest that you decide if you’re “hungry,” “very hungry” or “really hungry. Then your pizza is weighed, and you’re charged by the ounce; a practice Clement says he observed while on a pizza research trip to Rome. And the name, meant to let you know a weigh-in is coming, is a nod to the triple beam scale. Early menu items include a pizza topped with mozzarella, fontina and nettles; and a sausage pie with greens, cream and fennel pollen. 5918 N. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, (323)545-3534, www.triplebeampizza.com.
And in downtown L.A., chef Angelo Auriana and restaurateur Matteo Ferdinandi, who are behind the Arts District Italian restaurants Factory Kitchen and Officine Brera, are about to open their own pizzeria. Sixth+Mill, inspired by Auriana’s Southern Italian roots, is scheduled to open in March. The restaurant is also located in the Arts District, in a former masonry and steel warehouse. Auriana imported a Mario Acunto wood-fired oven for the restaurant and plans to use an Italian spiral mixer for the dough. He will also serve hard durum wheat pastas and small plates. Sommelier Francine Diamond-Ferdinandi has put together a beer list to accompany the pizza, as well as a selection of wine from small, family-owned Italian wineries. 1335 E. 6th St., Los Angeles, sixthandmill.com.
Time for dinner
If your craving for the double decker tacos at Trois Familia happens to come in the evening rather than at brunch, you’re in luck. Chef Ludo Lefebvre and partners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have launched dinner service at their Silver Lake restaurant. When it opened in 2015, it was conceived as a brunch-only concept with a menu of croissant sandwiches, grits with mole butter and sauteed mushrooms, hash-brown chilaquiles and double-decker tacos. Lefebvre added some new items to the dinner menu, including an omelet with feta and French onion soup sauce, a green salad with a warm goat cheese croutons and a smashed short rib burger. And they’ve got booze now too. What to sip with those tacos? Maybe a Tecate or a 2015 Domaine Cheveau Chardonnay from Burgundy. The restaurant is now open for dinner daily. 3510 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 725-7800, troisfamilia.com.
Japanese-style lunch boxes with multiple compartments may be a great way to pack meals for your favorite finicky eater. They’re also the focus of Hayato, a new Japanese restaurant at Row DTLA downtown. Chef Brandon Go’s kaiseki restaurant will open for dinner in the next couple of months, but until then, he’s launched a take-out bento box service. Each day, he makes about 20 boxes that are filled with 16 components, including black cod with miso, seared duck breast, koshihikari rice with root vegetables and dashimaki tamago (a type of Japanese omlet). The boxes are $46 each and available for pickup Tuesday through Friday at noon. (Advance order necessary.) 1320 E. 7th St., No. 126, Los Angeles, (213) 395-0607, www.hayatorestaurant.com.
Chef Phillip Frankland Lee’s Scratch|Bar & Kitchen restaurant has undergone another transformation. The tasting menu restaurant started on La Cienega Boulevard in Beverly Hills in 2013, closed in 2015, then reopened in 2016 in an Encino strip mall. The restaurant recently underwent renovations and has again reopened with a new dining room, a cocktail bar next door (in what was Lee’s short-lived Frankland’s Crab & Co.) and a new tasting menu. The 20-course menu is $145 per person and starts with snacks and cocktail pairings in the private bar. Dinner follows in the dining room and includes dishes such as brown butter-curried quail and celeriac-steamd hamachi. Scratch|Bar is part of Lee and his wife Margarita Kallas-Lee’s Scratch|Restaurants, which also includes Woodley Proper and Sushi|Bar, both located in the same Encino strip mall. 16101 Ventura Blvd., Suite 255, Encino (818) 646-6085, www.scratchbarla.com.