Newsletter: Counter: Fun with fancy fried food

If you spent last weekend eating too much food in the Paramount Studios backlot, this is a good time to relax, recalibrate, maybe cook your own dinner and watch some football. Especially as this town has, again, our own football team. If you head to a game, remember those bacon-wrapped hot dogs outside the Coliseum.

On our pages, Jonathan Gold is back from his Denmark vacation and has reviewed Tempura Endo, an omakase-style tempura specialist in Beverly Hills. Other stories this week include one on breakfast burritos, one about the new project from a much-loved DTLA chef and another on a craft beer project using stone fruit from Masumoto Family Farm, one of the most lauded peach farms in the country.

– Amy Scattergood

Deep-fried for deep pockets

This week Jonathan considers Tempura Endo, the first American branch of a tempura specialist in Kyoto, Japan, that dates to 1910. This is not your grandmother’s fried food, but an omakase-style restaurant in Beverly Hills run by the same executive chef, Satoshi Masuda, who helms the Kyoto restaurant. Santa Barbara uni wrapped in seaweed. Miyazaki A5 Wagyu. Stuffed pea pods.

Executive chef Satoshi Masuda at Tempura Endo.

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

Office breakfast burritos

Emmy Tellez wants us all to have better breakfasts, especially if we’re stuck in an office cubicle. Deputy Food editor Jenn Harris talk to the New Mexico native who’s started a “virtual food truck” called Sunrise Tortilla, which delivers breakfast burritos to your home or office. Just place an order online and she’ll deliver to certain areas around L.A. — in her Mazda.

A breakfast burrito from Sunrise Tortilla, a new burrito delivery service that bills itself as a “virtual food truck.”

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times )

There’s a peach in my beer

One of the many great things that the craft beer movement has done for us is to elevate interest in and production of great fruit beers. Beer writer John Verive checks out the beer project that grew from the near-legendary fruit of Masumoto Family Farm’s peach and nectarine trees. And because the fruit, so to speak, of that project won’t be available until spring, he finds four peach beers to drink now.

Masumoto Family Farm peaches being cut up by the staff at Highland Park Brewery. They’ll put the fruit into a special peach beer.

(Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times )

What’s happening around town

In her weekly restaurant news column, Jenn details the new project from chef Josef Centeno (Bäco Mercat, Orsa & Winston). It’s the division of his downtown L.A. restaurant Ledlow into two: a recalibrated Ledlow (with a whiskey bar), plus a new vegetable-oriented restaurant place called P.Y.T. Also, there’s a new B&B in Koreatown, in which the “b” stands for beverage, in this case: cocktails.

Josef Centeno is remodeling Ledlow (pictured) and splitting the existing space into two restaurants.

(Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times )

Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, the authoritative annual guide to local dining, is online for subscribers. And because you’re probably wondering, Gold’s 2016 Best Restaurants list will be out in late October, along with our annual Bite Nite celebration.

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