Taking Bread at the Bar

No reservation? Why not drop in and have a bite to eat at the bar. Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-1447. Style: Rustic Italian serving trendy, simple and delicious food. Setting: High-tech romantic. Recommended: Poached mozzarella with pesto; fettuccine with mascarpone; fish soup. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Gustaf Anders, South Coast Plaza Village, 3810 S. Plaza Drive, Costa Mesa. (714) 668-1737. Style: A grown-up restaurant serving serious Continental. Setting: Elegant barn. Recommended: Sugar- and salt-cured salmon; house-pickled herring; smoked salmon and black caviar sandwich. Cost per person: $40-$75.

Langan’s Brasserie, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City. (213) 785-0961. Style: California cuisine with a bit of pub grub. Setting: Clubby with huge bar and lots of art. Recommended dishes: London fish and chips; grilled chicken breast with eggplant terrine; fresh berry cobbler. Cost per person: $15-$40.

Tasca, 6266 1/2 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 465-7747. Style: Tapas tasting for instant gratification. Setting: Rustic hacienda with whitewashed walls and red tile floors. Recommended: Calamares a la Romana (fried squid); boquerones en vinagre (pickled anchovies); croquetas de bacalao (salt cod and potato fritters). Cost per person: $12-$45.

Tribeca, 242 N. Beverly Drive., Beverly Hills. (213) 874-2322. Style: Boy Food for fans of athletics and good service. Setting: Black and white room; color TVs. Recommended dishes: Crab cakes; Seafood stew; steak. Cost per person: $20-$35.