I. Cugini Drops Anchor on Ocean Ave.

I. Cugini (1501 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (213) 451-4595) is situated on the same Ocean Avenue restaurant row as Fennel, Ivy at the Shore and L’Opera--restaurants that demonstrate how far Santa Monicans’ idea of beach food stretches beyond corn dogs and Continental seafood. And so, like its neighbors, I. Cugini is a beach restaurant with serious intentions.

It is designed (expensively) with all the accoutrements of a trend-conscious restaurant--including a display kitchen--but it has the feel of a much more casual place. Here, denim jackets and shorts mingle easily with the little-black-dress crowd.

There are veal chops, spit-roasted chicken and herb-treated fish dishes, but also the Italian-style sandwiches called panini and several kinds of pizza, which you can eat on the patio. Or get your meal to go from the small deli near the entrance and eat your beach food on the beach.