Holidays in the Valley : Haunting the Telephonic Marketplace : Shopping: Some gift ideas for just about anyone, and they’re available by phone.

Food and drink are the original one-size-fits-all gifts. Here are some choices from the marketplace, many of them through the mail or by phone:

* A mustard sampler from Crabtree & Evelyn, with Dijon, champagne, tarragon and garlic-parsley flavors.

* A blue and white china bowl packed with walnut-honey cookies, berry preserves, honey and English breakfast tea, also from Crabtree & Evelyn.

* Chocolate truffles from Lindt. A collection of gourmet truffles, dark chocolate thins and a truffle bar trio are packaged in a miniature wood and brass sleigh.

* Kisses and hugs in chocolate (the hugs are little chocolate bears) are among the features in Hershey’s holiday catalogue. There are also chocolate-covered pretzels, chocolate in the shape of computers and a checkers game you play with kisses called Choc-ers.

* A giant fortune cookie, about 20 times normal size, filled with a personalized message and dipped in white or dark chocolate, from Chin Chin restaurants in California. Write out your own fortune message for the recipient or, if you’re stumped, Chin Chin can help with sample fortunes or greetings.

* The 12 Days of Christmas are marked in a sampler from Harry & David--a pear, apple, almonds, hickory and Cheddar cheeses, baked goods, nut-chocolate and hard candies, and other goodies, each packed in a dozen decorative boxes. The company has its usual selection of fruit, cheese and meat gifts, including Fruit-of-the-Month.

* For caviar lovers, an insulated picnic bag from Petrossian, with sevruga caviar, duck foie gras, gherkins and French toast clement, packaged with Frette linen napkins and black horn cutlery.

* The annual Christmas blend from Seattle’s Starbucks Coffee Co. A combination of rich Latin American coffees blended with Indonesian varietals for a flavor reminiscent of spices and nuts, it can be ordered with or without the matching mugs.

* A theme basket of wines and gifts custom-prepared by your local wine shop. The Wine Information and News Exchange, an industry group, suggests picking different wines from one maker and adding appropriate food or theme gifts. For example, a selection of Italian wines could be packed with pastas, olive oil, sun-dried tomatoes and other edibles into a basket from Italy.

* A beer sampler from around the world, packaged by Guinness, with brews from England, Ireland, Canada, Mexico and Czechoslovakia.

Where to Call

Crabtree & Evelyn, (800) 624-5211

Chin Chin restaurants, (213) 913-0936

Hershey, (800) 544-1347

Harry & David, (800) 547-3033

Petrossian, (800) 828-9241

Starbucks Coffee Co., (800) 445-3428

Jim Beam Holly Jolly Juggling Guide, (800) 745-2326

Aberlour Millennium Offer, (212) 725-9144