So Long, Valentino, Hello, Sean

In the here today, gone tomorrow world of L.A. clubs, bars and night spots, there’s one hangout that has a bona fide history.

If walls could talk, those at the Hollywood Athletic Club would shout with local legend because the 1924 edifice once housed a men’s gym where silver screen greats such as Buster Crabbe, Cornel Wilde, Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Johnny Weismuller and Rudolph Valentino cavorted.

But now you must prepare yourself for the ‘90s twist of fate: Valentino et al. have been replaced by Kiefer Sutherland, Sean Penn, Charlie Sheen, Kathleen Turner, Madonna and other film and rock ‘n’ roll luminaries, not to mention a pretty neat cross-section of L.A. scene makers. “You get New Wave, you get preps, you get entertainment people, and I’m just a normal lawyer,” said Bob Fessinger, a regular patron, accurately summing up the crowd.

What brings them in are 41 pool tables, three snooker tables, a solidly packed bar and a decent restaurant. The HAC was reborn, as of a year and a half ago, as a latter-day pool hall.

As such places go, it’s as chic as they come, starting with such kid glove amenities as valet parking ($3.50) and men’s and women’s bathroom attendants. The building also shines, thanks to a $2-million restoration, and don’t miss the little boutique where nifty HAC crests ($50) can be had for your navy blazer.

The place is noisy, spotless and bright. It’s also remarkably smoke-free because of high ceilings and a sophisticated air-filter system, according to Tom Salter, one of the owners and himself a dedicated nonsmoker. “It’s clean and not smoky--that’s the biggest thing for me,” says Keith West, a four-night-a-week regular.

The most chichi attraction of all--the entire upstairs area--is off limits to commoners and restricted to famous types and private parties. Here velvet drapes, cushy sofas, crystal chandeliers and beautiful fresh-flower arrangements are an 8-ball away from the game tables.

Sartorially speaking, HAC is a must for anyone who needs a quick fix on L.A. street style. Motorcycle and letterman’s jackets abound, as do the teeniest gold hoop earrings on men. Hot pants, evidently, are the only sensible style for women wielding pool cues.

After 9:30 or 10 p.m. on weekends, the wait for a pool table can last two hours, but if you come for dinner (burgers, cappellini, bangers and mash), you get the first available table. And if you’re famous, all the better. “Then I cheat,” chirps Salter, who is happy to welcome the Hollywood set back home.

Name: Hollywood Athletic Club.

Where: 6525 Hollywood Blvd. (213) 962-6600.

When: Every night, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Doorman: Long-haired, wears overalls and beads and checks IDs with a steely eye. After 6 p.m., you must be 21 or older to enter.

Prices: Pool table rentals vary according to time and day. Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, it’s $10 per hour for the first player and $2 per hour for each extra player. (Tables can be kept as long as one likes.) Beer, $2.50 to $3.50. Gourmet water, $2.50. Grappa, $5-$24 per glass. Bottle of Cristal, $145. Bangers and mash, $9. Chocolate chip cookies, 75 cents.