Pho, and beyond

Pho 97

Some pho aficionados consider the various incarnations served at this Chinatown eatery (formerly known as Pho 79) the best in L.A. In addition to pho dac biet, a beef lover’s delight, there is good cha gio: crisp, golden spring rolls that you tuck into cool lettuce leaves.

* Pho dac biet, $5.41; cha gio, $6.44. 727 N. Broadway, Suite 120, downtown L.A.; (213) 625-7026.

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Crustacean

This swanky, contemporary Vietnamese looker features a buzzing bar with live music. Everyone seems to know about the whole Dungeness crab from the secret kitchen and the garlic noodles. But there’s also a delicious vegetarian ragout. And new at lunch: a $25 three-course prix fixe menu.

* Whole crab, $35.95; noodles, $11.50; ragout, $16.50. 9646 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 205-8990.

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Pho 999

There are nearly 150 choices on the menu at this San Fernando Valley eatery (one in a quartet of Pho 999s). And that doesn’t include the many dessert offerings. No. 36 is especially popular: soup laden with rice noodles, shrimp, crab and barbecued pork. But for special occasions, the “special seven courses of beef” is hard to beat.

* Rice noodle soup, $5.95; beef special, $17.99. 6411 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys; (818) 782-1999.

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Gingergrass

A hit with the neighborhood since the day it opened, this stylish cafe serves up Vietnamese classics like pho and banh mi (sandwiches) as well as a number of Viet-Cal offerings such as summer rolls stuffed with tofu and served with a vegan nuoc cham dipping sauce. The once-a-month, Monday night prix fixe feasts are especially fun.

* Pho, $6.50; banh mi, $6.75 to $7.50; summer rolls, $4.50; 2396 Glendale Blvd., Silver Lake; (323) 644-1600.

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Red Moon Cafe

Although a good portion of the menu here is Chinese, some of the best dishes are Vietnamese. These include crystal rolls, delicate rice paper “cigars” filled with a choice of pork or shrimp and vermicelli noodles, and “flaming soup,” a Vietnamese version of hot and sour served in a fiery vessel.

* Crystal rolls, $4.95; flaming soup, $8.95. 11267 National Blvd., West L.A; (310) 473-8451.

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-- Leslee Komaiko