A woodsy walk on the wild side with 6 mushroom recipes

With the first rain of the fall come many things: traffic jams, the fresh smell in the air and, in our hills and markets, wild mushrooms.

Though common mushrooms are so everyday that we blithely chop them up and put them in salads, wild mushrooms are different. Their flavors are extravagant and woodsy. And their prices are kind of extravagant too.

So when you find porcinis or chanterelles -- whether in the wild or in the produce department -- you want to make sure that you get the very best mushrooms possible, keep them in the best condition and use them in the best way.

And, of course, if you aren’t lucky enough to find these mushrooms, don’t worry. You can use regular button mushrooms in any of these recipes.

How to choose: Always look for the firmest mushrooms; there should be no soft or wet spots. Moisture gives us mushrooms, but it also spoils them very quickly. And give them a good sniff. Good wild mushrooms will have a wonderful earthy perfume.

How to store: Use mushrooms as quickly as you can to keep them from either spoiling or drying out. If you must store them, put them in a tightly sealed plastic bag with a sheet of paper towel to absorb any extra moisture.

How to prepare: The simplest way -- and maybe the best way -- to cook mushrooms is to put them in a hot skillet and sprinkle them with salt. Cook, tossing frequently, until they give up some moisture. That’s when you add some minced shallots or garlic and any other flavorings. Continue cooking until the moisture has evaporated. Sprinkle with chopped herbs -- chives, tarragon or parsley -- and you’re ready to go.

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