Bill Addison is eating his way through Lebanon right now and doing things like touring the cellar at Chateau Musar (his Instagram is very jealousy-inducing, but you should follow along anyway) and will be back at the controls of this newsletter next week.
Before he left, he reflected back on the seven best places he’s reviewed this year. It’s brisk reading and a worthwhile reminder of restaurants that should be on your to-eat-at list.
Don’t forget to pile up on questions for Bill to welcome him back. Email him for our Ask the Critics feature.
- Speaking of lists, Amy Scattergood put together a monster collection of ice cream places around L.A. and Orange County, and it’s built out in a cute and fun way much like that list of essential burgers a few weeks ago. Jenn Harris collected her favorite dumplings in another story, and wrote about a blue drink at the revamped Formosa Cafe in West Hollywood.
- It feels to us like L.A. is waist-deep in birria these days, so we had Hadley Tomicki put together 17 spots to try. There’s also a spotlight on a Zacatecas-style bowl from Gustavo Arellano, and a report on a chef in Mexico City who has married birria with ramen noodles.
- Because life cannot be lived by lists alone, we ran a meaty profile of four of the women who helped redefine the role and status of pastry chefs in California and created a template that has inspired cooks around the world.
- And to cook? A recipe for vegan chilaquiles — including an umami-boosted salsa verde — from chef and caterer Jocelyn Ramirez via Cooking Editor Genevieve Ko. Or, if vegetables aren’t your thing, you could make this outstanding duck-fat pie crust.
Get on the list: Labor Day weekend is one month away, which means our annual Taste food festival is right around the corner. The event, held over three nights beginning Aug. 30, will return to the Paramount Pictures backlot. Tickets start at $115, which gets you unlimited food and alcohol.