Creamed leeks

Creamed leeks
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times )

Trim and discard the roots and dark-green parts from each leek. Halve each leek lengthwise and wash well under running water, fanning the layers and making sure to rinse off every hidden bit of sand. Slice the leeks finely crosswise – there should be 8 to 10 cups.


In a large, heavy saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium-low heat – it will be more than you think you need. Stir in the leeks and a pinch or two of salt. After a couple of minutes, stir in the rest of the butter.


Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for about 20 minutes – the leeks will have all but melted. Do not let them brown.


Stir in the cream, increase the heat to medium and gently simmer, stirring occasionally until thickened.


Grind pepper over the top and stir again. Serve.

Recipe adapted from Paula Wolfert.

Jonathan Gold was the restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times. He won the Pulitzer Prize in criticism in 2007 and was a finalist again in 2011. A Los Angeles native, he began writing the Counter Intelligence column for the L.A. Weekly in 1986, wrote about death metal and gangsta rap for Rolling Stone and Spin among other places, and was delighted that he managed to forge a career out of the professional eating of tacos. Gold died July 21, 2018.
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