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Creamy winter root vegetable gratin

Time 1 hour
Yields Serves 6
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Winter vegetables make for interesting dishes. Consider parsley root and celery root--roots that store well during the winter and pack great flavor. Refrigerate each in plastic bags up to about 10 days. Paired with potatoes, as they are in these recipes, the results are quite delicious and soothing.

Parsley root is a beige parsnip look-alike except for its feathery green parsley leaves. To me, it tastes like parsley; to others, a carrot-celery mixture. Relatively unknown in this country, it’s commonly used in Europe in soups and stews or as a vegetable. It is available in many supermarkets, but occasionally you have to request it. Choose firm roots with bright green leaves. Remove the leaves just before using and peel the root as you would a carrot. Use the leaves just like parsley.

Celery root--also called celeriac--is cultivated for its craggy, bulbous root with an intense celery taste. Although the roots range in size from an apple to a small cantaloupe, choose roots that are more to the apple size, firm and solid, without decay or soft spots and with a minimum of rootlets and knobs. The leaves remaining on the roots are inedible. Celery root can be eaten raw in salads, although in these recipes it is cooked. To peel, use a sharp paring knife but do not throw the peels in the disposal--they can clog it, requiring a plumber’s visit.

Mandel is author of “Celebrating the Midwestern Table” (Doubleday & Co., 1996).

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1

Heat butter in large, wide pot over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook until onion softens, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Do not brown.

2

Add potato, parsley roots, celery root, 2/3 cup cream, milk, salt and pepper to taste. Cook mixture, uncovered, stirring often, until mixture is thick and vegetables are almost tender, about 25 minutes.

3

Transfer mixture to greased, shallow 6-cup baking dish. Smooth surface with spatula. (Can be made to this point a day ahead, cooled, then covered and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature before baking.) Spoon 2 tablespoons cream over mixture; spread with spatula.

4

Bake at 350 degrees until gratin bubbles and is lightly browned, 35 to 45 minutes. For a browner surface, place under moderate broiler 2 to 3 minutes. Serve hot.

This gratin is adapted from a potato and turnip recipe once served at Fredy Girardet’s celebrated restaurant in Crissier, Switzerland. It’s a splendid complement to lamb, beef, chicken or seafood.