Dear SOS: I grew up loving the chiles rellenos from El Cholo. I remember going to the Western Avenue location as a kid when it still looked more like a house than a restaurant. Nowadays, I go to the Santa Monica location more often than the downtown location. Both serve the fluffiest, most satisfying rellenos I have ever eaten. It’s the standard by which I judge all others. If you could coax the recipe from them, I would love to try to make them at home.
Dear Gayle: These chiles rellenos, from one of Los Angeles’ most venerable Mexican restaurants, have an avid following all their own. The trick with that extra-fluffy coating lies in El Cholo’s method: A little of the whipped egg batter is fried on its own until set, then a stuffed chile is gently laid over; more batter is spooned over the chile, then it is flipped and fried to golden perfection. Drizzle a spoonful of the rich and slightly tangy relleno sauce over the top to complete this signature dish.