Based on a classic French céleri rémoulade salad, this kohlrabi version is dressed with yogurt spiked with mustard, red onion and cumin. It gets better the longer it sits in the fridge, so you can make a lot and eat it over a couple of days with every meal. Dill gives the salad a more Scandinavian flavor profile, which I like, but use parsley, tarragon or chives instead if that’s what you have.
In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, onion, mustard, salt, pepper and cumin. Stir together and let stand while you prep the kohlrabi and apple.
Trim off each “pole” of the kohlrabi so you have two flat ends, similar to removing the pith and peel of an orange. Stand one kohlrabi on a flat end, then use your knife to slice off the thick skin; this skin is bitter and never softens while cooking, nor is it pleasant to eat raw. There is a noticeable line between the light green skin and the pale white flesh, so cut just inside that line until you have a completely white cue ball. Repeat with the remaining two kohlrabi; you should have 255 to 285 grams (9 to 10 ounces) of trimmed kohlrabi.
Using a mandoline, slice the kohlrabi into 1/16-inch slices. Stack 6 or so slices together at a time, and slice into 1/16-inch-thick matchsticks (they will not all be the same length; that’s OK). As you cut, transfer the kohlrabi matchsticks to the bowl with the dressing.
Peel and core the apple, then weigh out (or eyeball) half the weight of the kohlrabi in peeled apple, so 128 to 142 grams (4 1/2 to 5 ounces). Slice the apple on the mandoline in the same manner as the kohlrabi, then cut into matchsticks.
Add the apple matchsticks to the bowl along with the lemon juice and toss all the ingredients to combine. It will seem like there is not enough dressing at first, but by the time each matchstick is coated in yogurt, you’ll see that it is enough. Taste and season with more salt and pepper, if you like. Transfer the salad to a serving dish and top with the dill just before serving.
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