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Adana Kebabs

Time 1 hour, plus 2 hours chilling
Yields Serves 4
Ground lamb, spiked with chile paste, is molded around skewers and then grilled in these classic Turkish kebabs.
(Matt Russell)
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It’s hard to pick a favorite Turkish kebab, but if I had to, this would be it, richly spiced with cumin, sumac and cinnamon and given some heat from pul biber chile flakes. Essential Hackney accompaniments are flatbreads and orzo rice (double carbs are encouraged), tzatziki (or plain yogurt), Turkish shepherd’s salad, and a grilled onion salad with pomegranate and sumac. The best way to cook these is outside over hot coals, but you can also make them inside under a broiler or using a griddle pan. If it’s the latter, turn the vent on high and open all the windows in the kitchen, as it will get very smoky.

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1

In a large bowl, combine the lamb, cumin, Aleppo pepper, sumac, hot pepper paste, cinnamon, garlic, onion and parsley, and season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Use your hands to knead the meat together for 5 minutes or so, really working the ingredients by squeezing them in your hands so the meat is broken down. This makes a big difference to the final texture of the kebabs, so don’t skip it.

2

Divide the meat into 8 equal parts and mold each part into a long kebab shape around a flat, 1-inch-wide metal skewer. Transfer the skewers to a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to infuse. Take the kebabs out of the refrigerator 20 minutes before you want to grill them.

3

Set up a charcoal grill for direct cooking, or heat a gas grill or griddle pan over high heat. Thread the tomato quarters onto more skewers, place them on the grill, and cook until lightly charred and cooked through (they won’t need oil), 3 to 5 minutes. Move them to the side of the grill, then add the kebabs to the grill and cook, turning them every few minutes, until they are browned and slightly charred, 6 to 8 minutes.

4

When the kebabs are ready, transfer them to a platter and let rest for a few minutes. If using flatbreads, warm them up on the grill, placing them on the same surface the kebabs were cooked on. This infuses the bread with the meat juices, making it incredibly appetizing. Serve the kebabs immediately with the breads and/or rice, yogurt, pickles and salads and the tomatoes.

Adapted from “Ripe Figs: Recipes and Stories from Turkey, Greece, and Cyprus” by Yasmin Khan (Norton, 2021).