“When I tell people I’m interested in making California soul food, I often get the response, ‘So does that mean it has kale and avocado in it? Ha, ha!’ Well, this dish is conceptually rooted in a play on the word ‘green.’ Green ingredients — green onion, green nuts (pistachio), green citrus (lime), etc. — is my cheeky, albeit very sincere, celebration of all that is cliché and wonderful about what consists of a ‘California’ dish.
“Traditionally, greens are collards cooked until they’re hammered in a smoked meat broth — typically ham hock or turkey neck. While they’re very delicious that way, I’ve found that the actual flavor of the greens gets lost behind all the smoke. This recipe allows cooked greens to be all they can be — spicy (mustards), pleasantly bitter and slightly astringent (chard), deeply verdant (Tuscan kale) or bright (micro greens). The slightest bit of smokiness is retained with the grilled chard stems.” — Ray Barrett