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Conserved tuna

Time 25 minutes
Yields Makes about 1 pound, or 2 cups flaked
Conserved tuna
1

Trim any skin, bones or dark blood spots from the tuna and discard. Cut the tuna into large cubes (at least 1 inch) and place them in a 1-quart saucepan. Add the salt, red pepper flakes, garlic and a pinch of black pepper and stir gently to distribute seasonings evenly. Arrange the tuna snugly in the pan so you won’t need to use too much additional oil. Add the bay leaf and lemon peel and pour over enough olive oil to just barely cover the fish. It will be about 1 cup, though you may need a little more for topping off.

2

Place the saucepan over very low heat and cook until the tuna just begins to flake, about 15 minutes. The oil may get hot enough that a few bubbles rise from the bottom, but it should not simmer. The top temperature shouldn’t exceed 160 degrees.

3

Cool the tuna to warm room temperature in the oil before transferring to a container for storage in the refrigerator. If you’re going to use the tuna the same day, refrigeration is not necessary. The tuna will keep, tightly sealed and refrigerated, for at least a week, but not more than 10 days. Warm to room temperature before using.

Conserving tuna takes very little time and even less effort, but if you’re in a real hurry, these recipes will work quite well with high-quality canned tuna, which can be found at import stores, on the Internet and even at some Southern California farmers markets. Traditionally, the best tuna has been canned in Spain, Portugal and Italy: Look for such brands as Albo, Genova, Ortiz and As do Mar. But there is a new group of artisanal tuna canners operating along the West Coast, under brands including Dave’s Albacore, Wild Pacific Seafood, Tuna Guys, Wild Planet and Shamrock. In general, look for brands that offer large pieces of tuna, often labeled as “fillet” rather than “chunk,” packed in high-quality olive oil.

Russ Parsons is a former food writer and columnist at the Los Angeles Times.
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