Dear SOS: I am in search of my grandmother’s favorite dish. She lived in Santa Monica and dined at The Lobster in the early ‘60s. They served a crab au gratin, which she has described to me as delicious.
Casey Ann Coleman
Dear Casey: You’re a good kid. The Lobster restaurant has a new life with chef Allyson Thurber, but crab au gratin is no longer on the menu. Here’s a recipe from a different Los Angeles restaurant, though, reported by Bert Greene, who wrote about San Francisco’s annual crab festival in 1986 for The Times. Green was a judge. “Crab au gratins come and go, but you will never taste a better version than the following handiwork of L.A. chef Raymond Marshall,” Greene wrote.