The Wallace's grilled cauliflower

Toast the bread crumbs over moderate heat in a dry skillet on the stove until golden and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes (or spread out on a rimmed baking sheet in a 325-degree oven for 5 minutes). Stir the bread crumbs occasionally, watching that they do not burn. In the same manner, toast the almonds until aromatic and slightly darkened, 2 to 3 minutes, or 10 to 15 minutes in the oven.

Place the almonds in a food processor and pulse until they are reduced to the size of bread crumbs, then combine in a bowl with the bread crumbs, folding in the Parmesan cheese and parsley. This makes a scant cup of topping. Set aside.

In a blender, combine the crème fraîche, yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, cheese, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, combining to a smooth cream. Set aside.

In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine the oil, rosemary and garlic. Set aside.

Heat a grill or grill pan over medium-high heat until hot.

Season both sides of the cauliflower “steaks” with salt and pepper, then brush with the rosemary garlic oil. Place the steaks on the grill and cook as you would a steak, grilling until they develop a good char and begin to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. If the steaks are coloring too quickly and you are afraid they will burn, adjust the heat of the grill or move them to a cooler area to cook. Brush the steaks again and flip over, grilling the other side. The total grilling time should be 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the grill.

Remove the steaks and transfer to a cutting board, cutting off the florets. Place the cauliflower in a bowl and toss with the Parmesan cream and a little more rosemary garlic oil.

Mound on a serving plate while still warm. Garnish with almond bread crumbs (you may not use all of them), along with fried rosemary and capers if desired. Serve immediately.