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Green tea soba with flounder and enoki mushrooms

Time 30 minutes
Yields Serves 4
Green tea soba with flounder and enoki mushrooms
(Los Angeles Times)

Dashi broth

1

In a saucepan, bring the water, soy sauce, mirin and kombu to a boil over medium heat. Boil for 30 to 45 seconds, then remove from heat and add the bonito flakes.

2

Let the broth steep for 3 to 5 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine mesh strainer, discarding the kombu and bonito flakes. Cool the broth, then refrigerate. It can be made up to a week ahead and kept refrigerated and tightly covered. Makes 3 cups.

Sauteed enoki mushrooms

1

In a saute pan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat. When the butter sizzles, add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook just until they soften, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Green tea soba

1

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the soba noodles and cook until foam rises to the top, about 30 seconds. Reduce heat and simmer until noodles are tender but springy. Depending on the brand, this can take anywhere from 1 to 5 minutes; the only way to be sure is to taste.

2

When the noodles are done, pour them into a strainer and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear. When the noodles are cool, drain them and divide them among 4 bowls; refrigerate.

Assembly

1

Rinse the fish and pat it dry. Season it with salt and pepper and lightly dust it with flour.

2

Heat the olive oil and butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter sizzles, add the flounder pieces, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Cook until they are crisp on both sides, about 4 to 6 minutes total cooking time. Remove them from the pan and lift the fillets from the bones. (If they don’t lift easily, cook them a little more.)

3

Add about two-thirds cup chilled dashi broth to each of the 4 bowls of chilled soba noodles. Place the chilled mushrooms and hot fish on top of the noodles. Garnish with the shredded nori and kaiware sprouts. Artfully smear a little less than a teaspoon of wasabi along one side of the bowl. Serve immediately.

Adapted from a recipe most often made with skate and chanterelles from Mako Tanaka at Mako in Beverly Hills.

Russ Parsons is a former food writer and columnist at the Los Angeles Times.
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