Food

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Jonathan Gold

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  • Burmese cooking gets creative at Daw Yee Myanmar Corner in Silver Lake

    Burmese cooking gets creative at Daw Yee Myanmar Corner in Silver Lake

    Have the design magazines made it out to Daw Yee Myanmar Corner yet? Because it is hard to imagine a restaurant better-suited to a page or two in Dwell: a small Silver Lake dining room decked out with glowing pink-and-blue neon and a black-and-white tiled wall, gilded faux-crocodile wallpaper,...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews the Cannibal, your New World Order butcher-shop-and-beer restaurant

    Jonathan Gold reviews the Cannibal, your New World Order butcher-shop-and-beer restaurant

    My brother Mark, who has been to the environmental movement in Los Angeles more or less what James Worthy was to the Lakers, is particular about what he eats. He still hasn’t forgiven me for a shark’s fin dumpling I accidentally chose from a dim sum cart in 1992, and I once saw him approach something...

  • Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

    Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

    When the weather gets hot, the noodles get cold. And here are some of the coldest. Yu Chun — How cold is Yu Chun’s mool chic naengmyun? So cold that it gives you an ice cream headache. So cold that the tangy beef broth builds up in soft drifts in the middle of the bowl. So cold that the customary...

Lunchtime Chats

Dining Out

Home Cooking

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How to throw an Israeli-SoCal mezze party

Since my most recent trip to Israel, my favorite summer entertaining format has been salatim, Hebrew for “salads,” a do-ahead array of small cold plates, condiments and flatbreads that guests dip, scoop, spread, tear and combine to their hearts’ content. No courses to manage or food to keep hot,...

Recipes

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Beer, Wine and Cocktails

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Wines of the week: Grüner Veltliner! Liters!

Wines of the week: Grüner Veltliner! Liters!

Where is it written that a bottle of wine must be 750ml? Well the answer, roughly, is found in U.S. law, which decreed such a measure when the government tried fitfully to convert the country to the metric system in the seventies — 750ml being just a few silly milliliters short of a “fifth” of...

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  • Ruth Reichl's review of Michel Richard's original L.A. restaurant Citrus

    Ruth Reichl's review of Michel Richard's original L.A. restaurant Citrus

    Michel Richard, who died Aug. 13 at age 68 from complications of a stroke, helped establish Washington, D.C., as a major dining city when he opened the restaurant Citronelle in 1994. But it was Richard’s Los Angeles restaurant Citrus, opened in 1987, that first brought him acclaim in the U.S., beyond...

  • Your L.A. farmers market-driven drought update

    Your L.A. farmers market-driven drought update

    The news came via Instagram, as much of the news does these days. “Dear Valued Customers,” the text read, “ Due to Stage III drought conditions I have been mandated to cut my water use by 42%.” In black typeface against a white square background, Romeo Coleman who, along with his father Bill and...

  • Farmers market report: Corn is in season. We have recipes

    Farmers market report: Corn is in season. We have recipes

    What’s in season: As the temperatures rise, so do the mounds of corn piling high at the market now through mid-autumn, the season typically beginning in June and generally extending through September. Fans of white and yellow varieties have their beliefs as to which is sweeter and more flavorful,...

  • Summer wine cocktails make a splash beyond sangria

    Summer wine cocktails make a splash beyond sangria

    For years, wine cocktails have gotten a bad rap. Hear the term, and you might vaguely remember college days filled with wine spritzers and bottled wine coolers, the alcohol cut with sparkling water or teeth-jarring sweeteners, with flavorings both natural and otherwise, the beverages a color palette...

  • How to make ice cream and other frozen treats without a machine

    How to make ice cream and other frozen treats without a machine

    If there’s one dish that signifies summer, it’s probably ice cream. Be it a simple bowlful or carefully balanced scoops piled high in a sugar cone, this is the stuff of bright colors and vivid flavors, perhaps a little messy but always fun. It’s an easy antidote to the heat that takes us straight...

  • Toma's olive oil cake recipe

    Toma's olive oil cake recipe

    Reader Joan Moon of Burbank loves the olive oil cake from Toma restaurant, which opened in 2013 in a location on the waterfront in Santa Barbara that has existed for more than 80 years. Moon writes that she orders the cake, a creation of the restaurant’s chef, Nat Ely, every time she’s in town....

  • How your Korean sashimi dinner gets there: From sea to tank to plate

    How your Korean sashimi dinner gets there: From sea to tank to plate

    Outside of Seoul, Los Angeles is one of the best places in the world to eat Korean sashimi. As with the Japanese style, this involves a parade of raw sliced fish, often of different varieties, the utterly fresh fish accompanied by various Korean dipping sauces. However, unlike most Japanese sushi,...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

    Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

    When you walk into Kali, maybe at the end of a short stroll from the Paramount lot down the street, one of the first things you see, perhaps even before you have registered the dining counter or the kitchen, is the giant grinning pig’s head behind glass. It’s not the only thing in that refrigerator,...

  • Going full curry cray at E.P. & L.P. with Aussie chef Louis Tikaram

    Going full curry cray at E.P. & L.P. with Aussie chef Louis Tikaram

    Louis Tikaram, the 31-year-old executive chef at E.P. & L.P. (the name stands for the musical terms “extended play and long play”), a Thai-Fijian-Indian-Chinese restaurant in West Hollywood, is at a prep station in his open kitchen, behind a long, shiny metal chef’s counter, putting on latex gloves....

  • Where to go for ibrik coffee, also called Arabic or Turkish coffee, in L.A.

    Where to go for ibrik coffee, also called Arabic or Turkish coffee, in L.A.

    It’s easy enough to make coffee in an ibrik (or cezve) at home, but for those times you want to go out and enjoy the coffee over, say, a book or a long conversation, you’ll be happy to discover that ibriks line the back counters of many restaurants and cafés around Los Angeles. You’ll usually find...

  • Roussanne, a Rhône Valley white wine that's both maddening and majestic

    Roussanne, a Rhône Valley white wine that's both maddening and majestic

    Winemaker Bob Lindquist of Qupé, one of California’s preeminent Rhône Rangers, came to the grape variety Roussanne late, perhaps because it is regarded as the most maddening of the Rhône Valley’s whites. He was already making Viognier and a quietly spectacular Marsanne, arguably the country’s best,...

  • How to make socca and other delicious pancakes with chickpea flour

    How to make socca and other delicious pancakes with chickpea flour

    You can find savory chickpea pancakes on tables in France, Italy, Gibraltar, parts of northern Africa — and, these days, many restaurants across America. It’s easy to understand the widespread appeal. This delicious crepe has a lovely, slightly earthy flavor, smooth, moist interior and crispy browned...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's Hot Chicken

    Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's Hot Chicken

    What happens when you take your first bite of Nashville hot chicken, say the Howlin’ Hot fried chicken at Chinatown’s Howlin’ Ray’s?  You burn your fingers for one thing — the bird is just out of the fryer, and you’ll probably want to tear the quarter-chicken in half for easy eating — as a good...

  • How to make Turkish coffee at home

    How to make Turkish coffee at home

    Ayperi Demircioglu is at the back of the Anatolian Gift Shop in Huntington Beach, calmly watching as a small pot of coffee begins to bubble. Savoring a cup of the rich, thick brew is a ritual she’s relished since she was a child, raised near the Black Sea in Turkey. She is brewing a pot of Turkish...

  • The rye-volution: Rye whiskey’s moment continues

    The rye-volution: Rye whiskey’s moment continues

    Rye whiskey has been having a moment for more than a few years now. According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, rye whiskey volumes grew 536% from 2009 to 2014, to more than half a million 9-liter cases. As new distilling techniques and styles emerge, rye continues to evolve,...

  • Esdras Ochoa, the taco missionary

    Esdras Ochoa, the taco missionary

    The origin myth of the taquero is often embedded in a street scene, maybe from a Cormac McCarthy border town, or a home kitchen somewhere in Sonora or Michoacán or East L.A., tortillas made by mothers and grandmothers, meat on a fire. Not on a Mormon mission in the Pacific Northwest. Yet that’s...

  • Inside the grand Hollywood restaurant Paley, Jonathan Gold takes amused small bites

    Inside the grand Hollywood restaurant Paley, Jonathan Gold takes amused small bites

    The last time I visited Paley, a bored parking attendant waved me into a Do Not Enter lane, through a maze of narrow passageways and down to a cavernous lower level where mine was pretty much the only car. An elevator whooshed me up to an unfinished office floor of a glass-and-steel building. A...

  • Farmers market report: Tomatoes are in season

    Farmers market report: Tomatoes are in season

    What’s in season: A variety of exotic heirloom and other tomatoes are showing up at a number of markets, taking advantage of the heat. And though the quality of supermarket tomatoes continues to improve, it’s still hard to beat the flavor offered by local farmers at various stands, with colorful...

  • Bulgogi cultists, rejoice: Jonathan Gold finds first-rate Korean barbecue at Gwang Yang

    Bulgogi cultists, rejoice: Jonathan Gold finds first-rate Korean barbecue at Gwang Yang

    Have you ever encountered Korean food? Then you have tasted bulgogi. Bulgogi is essentially marinated, thinly sliced beef tossed on a grill until it crisps and caramelizes. Bulgogi is what you find in chain-mall bibimbap, stuffed into Kogi BBQ tacos, and layered onto rice bowls at church carnivals....

  • How to make delicious funnel cake — we've got video too!

    How to make delicious funnel cake — we've got video too!

    The funnel cake — served under a mountain of powdered sugar and any of a number of toppings — is the stuff of fried food legend, and a trip to the fair, carnival or theme park isn’t complete without one. Or the stack of napkins you’ll need to go with it. For the uninitiated, a funnel cake is a...

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