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Jonathan Gold

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  • Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's Hot Chicken

    Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's Hot Chicken

    What happens when you take your first bite of Nashville hot chicken, say the Howlin’ Hot fried chicken at Chinatown’s Howlin’ Ray’s?  You burn your fingers for one thing — the bird is just out of the fryer, and you’ll probably want to tear the quarter-chicken in half for easy eating — as a good...

  • Jonathan Gold's 6 favorite Asian fried chicken joints in the L.A. area

    Jonathan Gold's 6 favorite Asian fried chicken joints in the L.A. area

    Does Los Angeles live by Nashville hot chicken alone? No — not as long as there’s a universe of Asian fried chicken too. Max's Restaurant — Is Max’s the Coco’s of the Philippines? Yes, Max’s is kind of the Coco’s of the Philippines, the Glendale outlet of a biggish, aggressively normal chain that...

  • Inside the grand Hollywood restaurant Paley, Jonathan Gold takes amused small bites

    Inside the grand Hollywood restaurant Paley, Jonathan Gold takes amused small bites

    The last time I visited Paley, a bored parking attendant waved me into a Do Not Enter lane, through a maze of narrow passageways and down to a cavernous lower level where mine was pretty much the only car. An elevator whooshed me up to an unfinished office floor of a glass-and-steel building. A...

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Roussanne, a Rhône Valley white wine that's both maddening and majestic

Roussanne, a Rhône Valley white wine that's both maddening and majestic

Winemaker Bob Lindquist of Qupé, one of California’s preeminent Rhône Rangers, came to the grape variety Roussanne late, perhaps because it is regarded as the most maddening of the Rhône Valley’s whites. He was already making Viognier and a quietly spectacular Marsanne, arguably the country’s best,...

MORE FROM FOOD

  • Friendly yet professional: L.A.'s restaurants work hard to ensure service matches the city's vibe

    Friendly yet professional: L.A.'s restaurants work hard to ensure service matches the city's vibe

    The conversation about restaurants in Los Angeles is most often about food, and rightfully so, but the experience of dining in restaurants is also about something else. The lighting, the music, the thrill of being remembered on a return visit – this is the domain of the front of house, a brigade...

  • Esdras Ochoa, the taco missionary

    Esdras Ochoa, the taco missionary

    The origin myth of the taquero is often embedded in a street scene, maybe from a Cormac McCarthy border town, or a home kitchen somewhere in Sonora or Michoacán or East L.A., tortillas made by mothers and grandmothers, meat on a fire. Not on a Mormon mission in the Pacific Northwest. Yet that’s...

  • How to make delicious funnel cake — we've got video too!

    How to make delicious funnel cake — we've got video too!

    The funnel cake — served under a mountain of powdered sugar and any of a number of toppings — is the stuff of fried food legend, and a trip to the fair, carnival or theme park isn’t complete without one. Or the stack of napkins you’ll need to go with it. For the uninitiated, a funnel cake is a...

  • In praise of the food mill

    In praise of the food mill

    My kitchen is definitely the kitchen of a working food professional — but it’s not a kitchen filled with the latest expensive gadgets. There are plenty of gadgets and tools, mind you, but among my most treasured are workhorse items I’ve bought over the years, for not much money, at garage sales...

  • Rye is finally having a moment. Taste why in these brownie, cookie and hand pie recipes.

    Rye is finally having a moment. Taste why in these brownie, cookie and hand pie recipes.

    Think about rye and the things that probably come to mind are dense loaves of Old World bread, dark as earth and shot with caraway, maybe a nursery rhyme (blackbirds, pie) or more likely a tumbler of Prohibition-era whiskey. But these days if you're a pastry chef, or like to bake like one, rye...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Button Mash: Tofu balls! Arcade games!

    Jonathan Gold reviews Button Mash: Tofu balls! Arcade games!

    Before we get on to the business of the review, I should confess that I have never been able to get past a dozen or so screens of the video game "Food Fight." I have never been able to chuck more than a pie or two at the murderous chefs. I have never figured out why a handful of peas will take...

  • A chef's years-long obsession with XO sauce

    A chef's years-long obsession with XO sauce

    Chefs are by nature obsessive. It's a personality trait that tends to fit them, like their chef's whites, that knife collection, maybe some latent pyromania. You could argue that chef Sang Yoon has been better than most at channeling his kitchen fixations. He built his first restaurant, Father's...

  • Love za'atar? Try making the addictive Middle Eastern spice blend at home

    Love za'atar? Try making the addictive Middle Eastern spice blend at home

    With a name that sounds like an exotic superhero, za’atar can save food from blandness with just a sprinkle. The woodsy, herbal, citrusy spice blend from the Middle East is thrilling to eat — one taste and the palate veers in surprising and delicious directions. Za’atar is a harmony of herb, sesame...

  • Jonathan Gold finds much to like at Rose Café in Venice — pepperoni pizza with honey, anyone?

    Jonathan Gold finds much to like at Rose Café in Venice — pepperoni pizza with honey, anyone?

    You are in Venice. You have probably spent the last 20 minutes looking for a place to park. And you are walking into the Rose Café, a sprawling aircraft hangar of a restaurant that is somehow five times the size it appears from the street. Prints from skateboard-art godfather C.R. Stecyk III line...

  • The mother and daughter team at the heart of Rubies + Diamonds

    The mother and daughter team at the heart of Rubies + Diamonds

    For Jean Shim and her daughter, Elia Min, practically every day is a family bake sale. “I always made these at home. My mom had the idea of selling them, and they were popular,” said Min about the chocolate chip cookies she bakes for Rubies + Diamonds, the glamorous cafe located in the Columbia...

  • At Yuca's tacos in Los Feliz, a neighborhood origin story

    At Yuca's tacos in Los Feliz, a neighborhood origin story

    For some, the origin story of Los Feliz begins on Hillhurst Avenue, under the canopy of “Mama” Socorro Herrera’s Yuca’s Hut. The tiny taco stand is a place of happiness — educational for some (no hard shell tacos or salsa bar) and a safe space for others, where Christmas ornaments hang from the...

  • If the recipe hasn't been tested, can you trust it?

    If the recipe hasn't been tested, can you trust it?

    These days, anyone can type up a recipe and post it online. A recent Google search for "chicken recipes" turned up over 78 million results. But you'd be surprised how many recipes are published without being tested, both online and in print. Of those 78 million online recipes, how many are reliable...

  • Salt's Cure brings the city's best pork chop to its new location on Highland Avenue

    Salt's Cure brings the city's best pork chop to its new location on Highland Avenue

    It is probably easier to find a great pork chop in Los Angeles than it has ever been, from the char siu pork chop at Jar to the fennel-crusted chop at Sotto, to the racket-size tomahawks at Chi'Spacca. But the best pork chop in town is the one at Salt's Cure in its new Hollywood digs: a full pound...

  • Papa Cristo's cooks up a new reason to visit: free Greek cooking classes

    Papa Cristo's cooks up a new reason to visit: free Greek cooking classes

    For 68 years, Papa Cristo's Greek restaurant and shop has helmed a dense stretch of Pico Boulevard in the Pico-Union neighborhood of Los Angeles. These days, the area is populated with carnicerias, dollar stores and — crucial to Papa Cristo's history — St. Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral across...

  • Kagura does a crisp business in the pork cutlet known as tonkatsu

    Kagura does a crisp business in the pork cutlet known as tonkatsu

    Los Angeles, I believe, has yet to reach Peak Ramen. New sushi bars seem to open each week. In some parts of town, you are rarely more than a few minutes' drive from a curry house, a Japanese spaghetti parlor or a plate of okonomiyaki. Yet occasionally it seems as if too little is said about tonkatsu,...

  • Hungry for biryani? Here are 7 places in the L.A. area to get your fill

    Hungry for biryani? Here are 7 places in the L.A. area to get your fill

    Toss curry and rice together and you have biryani, right? Well, not exactly. This is what often passes for the beloved Indian rice dish at restaurants too pressed for time to make the real thing. A sumptuous dish once feasted on by Mogul rulers, biryani consists of ornately seasoned meat (chicken,...

  • Taste a sunny spring day in Italy's white wines

    Taste a sunny spring day in Italy's white wines

    In France and in the U.S. one usually takes the measure of a white wine by talking about its intensity, concentration, length. The longer the wine, the more focused the flavors, the greater the magnitude, the profundity — the greater the greatness. But Italian white wines rarely follow these rules....

  • Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    If you've been to Tokyo, you know that finding a restaurant can be even harder than wrangling a reservation to one, even if you have an exact street address, even if you're with a friend who knows the neighborhood fairly well. Sometimes the best places are on the 12th floor of what looks like an...

  • L.A.'s tacos are filled with a world of flavors; chef Enrique Olvera loves that about us

    L.A.'s tacos are filled with a world of flavors; chef Enrique Olvera loves that about us

    Enrique Olvera doesn't believe in Mexican food. The 40-year-old chef behind Pujol in Mexico City and Cosme in New York cites the difference between Texas barbecue and California cuisine to prove his point. "Nationality in general is a stupid discussion," he says. "There is a Mexican cuisine that...

  • L.A. Kitchen gives its students the ingredients for a better life

    L.A. Kitchen gives its students the ingredients for a better life

    The 20,000-square-foot Lincoln Heights kitchen is humming with the sounds of pre-service food prep. While the chef de cuisine shapes cheese quenelles for a pasta dish, an apprentice washes arugula, then whisks together a balsamic vinaigrette. At the heart of the room, a battalion of busy cooks...

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