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Jonathan Gold

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Mild little Japanese shishito peppers are having their moment

Go to almost any Japanese restaurant, and shishito peppers are as much a staple on the menu as bowls of edamame. Quickly sauteed until the vibrant green peppers soften and begin to blister, they’re often served in a small bowl, seasoned with soy sauce and a maybe a touch of vinegar, and garnished...

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Beer, Wine and Cocktails

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Blinking Owl, Orange County's first distillery, opens this week

Blinking Owl, Orange County's first distillery, opens this week

Southern California can add another craft distillery to its growing roster of booze businesses. Blinking Owl Distillery, which takes its name from the midcentury bar of the same name on Birch and 3rd streets in Santa Ana, will open to the public on Sept. 24. Co-owned by husband and wife Brian and...

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  • Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson's Locol is 'bringing Watts to the rest of L.A.' in new food truck

    Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson's Locol is 'bringing Watts to the rest of L.A.' in new food truck

    In a move that should surprise no one, chefs Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson have taken their “fast food” restaurant Locol, which they opened in Watts in January, and put it on wheels. The Locol food truck opened for service this morning.  When asked why a food truck, Patterson, who was sitting on...

  • Farmers market report: Okra is in season. We have recipes.

    Farmers market report: Okra is in season. We have recipes.

    What’s in season: Known for its rather gelatinous texture, okra can be a challenge to cook, even for fans. Found in a number of world cuisines, varieties range in color from vivid green to deep shades of red or purple; the vegetable is typically in season from late June through October. To minimize...

  • More great coffee and the revitalization of a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz

    More great coffee and the revitalization of a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz

    Los Angeles has always been a jigsaw of neighborhoods, especially when it comes to restaurants: little pockets where good food and drink spots tend to collect, drawn to each other as we’re then drawn to them. The short stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz just east of Vermont Avenue has...

  • Farmers market report: Apples are in season (with recipes)

    Farmers market report: Apples are in season (with recipes)

    What’s in season: A sure sign fall is just around the corner, a variety of apples are dominating many stands at farmers markets around Los Angeles. With a season that generally runs from late August through November, we’ve spotted a wide assortment of the fruit, varieties including Fuji, Honeycrisp,...

  • Making tapenade, the Provençal olive paste, for a California kitchen

    Making tapenade, the Provençal olive paste, for a California kitchen

    Tapenade, a word we’ve seen on California restaurant menus and supermarket jars for more than two decades, is — or should be — an olive paste. It’s a signature dish of Provence, the olive-producing, Mediterranean region of France. There, the olives are mashed with anchovies, garlic, capers, olive...

  • Farmers market report: Asian pears are in season (with recipes)

    Farmers market report: Asian pears are in season (with recipes)

    What’s in season: Sometimes referred to as the apple pear, there are over 100 varieties of Asian pears, with many of the original California plantings started by Japanese immigrants a century or more ago. The season generally extends from August well into October, and, similar to apples, varieties...

  • Wines of the week: Chenin blancs

    Wines of the week: Chenin blancs

    Wine trends in California can be exceedingly subtle, particularly when they involve wines as transparent as Chenin Blanc, a white variety that’s been around for more than a century in California. For about the last 30 years, it’s gone largely overlooked and unregarded, until a dozen or so local...

  • Why you'll want to figure out how to use a spiralizer

    Why you'll want to figure out how to use a spiralizer

    I came late to the spiralizer party. I’d never heard of the gadget that turns vegetables into noodle-like strands until about a year ago, when I started seeing dishes with names such as “Zinguine™” on restaurant menus. The gluten-free and paleo crowd have been onto this tool for some time — it’s...

  • Raising the bar for terrific back-to-school and back-to-the-office snacks

    Raising the bar for terrific back-to-school and back-to-the-office snacks

    Cookie bars, sliced pie squares, granola bars and crisped rice treats. Whether topped with a drizzle of chocolate or a crumbly streusel topping, bars are the go-to treats for bake sales and school lunches, perfect for potlucks and office parties, or simply a quick snack when you’re on the run. ...

  • The geometry of pie: Because round may be boring, but we love it anyway

    The geometry of pie: Because round may be boring, but we love it anyway

    Call it pie fate, something I have a little experience with. Recently I received two emails on the same day. The first: What did I think of talking to WNYC “The Sporkful” podcast host Dan Pashman about the merits of round versus square pie? On his podcast, Pashman  often explores food construction...

  • Ruth Reichl's review of Michel Richard's original L.A. restaurant Citrus

    Ruth Reichl's review of Michel Richard's original L.A. restaurant Citrus

    Michel Richard, who died Aug. 13 at age 68 from complications of a stroke, helped establish Washington, D.C., as a major dining city when he opened the restaurant Citronelle in 1994. But it was Richard’s Los Angeles restaurant Citrus, opened in 1987, that first brought him acclaim in the U.S., beyond...

  • Your L.A. farmers market-driven drought update

    Your L.A. farmers market-driven drought update

    The news came via Instagram, as much of the news does these days. “Dear Valued Customers,” the text read, “ Due to Stage III drought conditions I have been mandated to cut my water use by 42%.” In black typeface against a white square background, Romeo Coleman who, along with his father Bill and...

  • Farmers market report: Corn is in season. We have recipes

    Farmers market report: Corn is in season. We have recipes

    What’s in season: As the temperatures rise, so do the mounds of corn piling high at the market now through mid-autumn, the season typically beginning in June and generally extending through September. Fans of white and yellow varieties have their beliefs as to which is sweeter and more flavorful,...

  • Summer wine cocktails make a splash beyond sangria

    Summer wine cocktails make a splash beyond sangria

    For years, wine cocktails have gotten a bad rap. Hear the term, and you might vaguely remember college days filled with wine spritzers and bottled wine coolers, the alcohol cut with sparkling water or teeth-jarring sweeteners, with flavorings both natural and otherwise, the beverages a color palette...

  • How to make ice cream and other frozen treats without a machine

    How to make ice cream and other frozen treats without a machine

    If there’s one dish that signifies summer, it’s probably ice cream. Be it a simple bowlful or carefully balanced scoops piled high in a sugar cone, this is the stuff of bright colors and vivid flavors, perhaps a little messy but always fun. It’s an easy antidote to the heat that takes us straight...

  • Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

    Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

    When the weather gets hot, the noodles get cold. And here are some of the coldest. Yu Chun — How cold is Yu Chun’s mool chic naengmyun? So cold that it gives you an ice cream headache. So cold that the tangy beef broth builds up in soft drifts in the middle of the bowl. So cold that the customary...

  • Farmers market report: Grapes are in season, and some recipes

    Farmers market report: Grapes are in season, and some recipes

    What’s in season: The Southern California grape season is here, typically starting in July and extending a few months into October, with stands featuring a wide variety of the fruit, from early-maturing Black Emerald and sweet Japanese Kyoho, to crisp Summer Royal, plump seedless Flame and seedless Thompson...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Lasa, a temporary Filipino restaurant with long-range ambitions

    Jonathan Gold reviews Lasa, a temporary Filipino restaurant with long-range ambitions

    We are here once again at the Far East Plaza, the modest Chinatown mall that is home to the recently reviewed Howlin’ Ray’s, Pok Pok Phat Thai and Chego, among other players in the current food movement. We are in Unit 120, the self-described restaurant incubator space, run by Alvin Cailan, whom...

  • Crispy, golden, flavorful: That's Terrine's pickle-brined fried chicken. Here's the recipe.

    Crispy, golden, flavorful: That's Terrine's pickle-brined fried chicken. Here's the recipe.

    Done right, fried chicken is a beautiful thing. Unpretentious as this classic comfort food might be, there’s a definite art to it: a tender piece of meat, delicately seasoned and lightly dredged with a dusting of flour, then baptized in a pool of sizzling fat to crisp, golden perfection. And while...

  • A rosé wine primer for beginners, experts and weirdos

    A rosé wine primer for beginners, experts and weirdos

    What is there to “know” about rosé wines? Grape juice, bled or blended or vinified pink, liberally applied on hot sunny days, made to chill, glug, repeat? Well, yes, that’s about it. Except that the market for rosé, once a trickle, is now a flood so massive it’s practically biblical. And just like...

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